K. OLECH
The people: Piotr Mlotecki (leader), W. Branski, A good. Gardas, W. Klaput, M. Malatynski K. Olech (deputy frontrunner), J. Olszewski, Yards. Piatkowski, A. Pietraszek (doctor), Yards. Rogalski, Z. Rubinoski, An excellent. Sobolewski, Z. Staszyszyn, A great. Strumitto and you will S. Wdowiak.
The initial ASCENT Away from KANGBACHEN, 1974
The initial cluster comprising A good. Gardas, Yards. Malatynski, K. Olech, J. Olszewski, Meters. Rogalski, A good. Sobolewski with Jepa, Sonam and you can 12 porters stumbled on the Ramtang Area for the age lay the spot where the Jugoslav trip got when you look at the 1965.
We arrive at works preparing Ft on the chief caravan class, carrying out the reconnaissance of one’s npper an element of the area and observing the newest icefall and moraine by which the latest Jugoslavs reached the initial terrace off Kangbachen.
The new icefall, formed at several membership try extremely fractured additionally the snowfall coating it is body generated tough the first observance off crevasses. Brand new sides of your icefall was threatened by 
avalanches, you to definitely eventually might be considering the fresh seraes in the first patio. m. casual and leading to avalanches various sizes. Due to the recce i chosen a secure channel from middle of icefall, it becoming a comparatively quiet part within seracs plus the snowfields therefore we heading.
On the 20 April, we pitched the first temporary tent on top of the embankment off the original terrace (5750 meters.). Two days later i found a course through the moraine and that is actually endangered less by the brick-avalanches than the one used by the Jugoslavs. Camp I became mainly based with the twenty eight April at the 5400 m. regarding icefall but is mainly for have fun with whenever moving the brand new plenty. Camp II (5850 m.) are a 3rd of way up the initial terrace. With the six Get, we had been already when you look at the a short-term tent at the 6200 meters., significantly less than a steep face leading to brand new apparent saddle amongst the basic patio additionally the Jannu Area. Which started slope are secure with fixed ropes. Our functions is done in continuous accumulated snow and you can piece of cake blowing regularly before the noon. Early in new morning out-of eleven Get, I kept this new tent (during the 6200 m.) which have A good. Sobolewski towards the Feet Camp. I took place easily – 60 minutes so you can Go camping II, 1J occasions so you can Camp We and also by 9-30 a great.yards. we were already in the Base Go camping. The latest route from the icefall no further stayed! Fixed ropes and you may markers had been not as much as freeze debris – indeed there need started a tremendous course of freeze stops.
We met all in Legs Camp. Here we chose to generate an alternative path to the original patio through the upper an element of the horizontal moraine where we noticed alternatively shorter dropping rocks now than 3 days eardier. With the p We and you will delivered their devices so you’re able to Go camping II. Using this go out there clearly was zero Go camping I but we went on to retain the last numeration. We based Go camping III (6350 m.) into seat.
On the p III, we remaining the beds base Camp including J. Olszewski and you can went to Camp II. The station thru moraine was realistically marked into decorated stone-cairns by the S. Wdowiak and you can Sherpa Wangchuck exactly who shown a considerable graphic overall performance in the creating that work. The team out-of P. Mlotecki came down the exact same time to Ft Go camping. Every other cluster-members are there but the fresh Sirdar that has visited Ghunza.
Overnight i attained Camp III and you can returned to the evening with the tent according to the seat, where in fact the breeze was not very striking. For the sixteen May, a strong snap made the newest active action very hard The team out of W. Branski move some time to come along side saddle, up coming originated in order to Legs, immediately after repairing ropes. Following day i fixed such ropes having carried on fool around with, made them prolonged of the regarding various other 100 meters. and you will turned-back to the nights so you can Camp III.